Steve returns to Cairo for the International Comparative Literature Conference at Cairo University (Nov. 22-24).

In Shobra with Walid and Ahmed's mother.

Back to the Medieval city to visit some of my favorite places with Ann-Marie and Camilla, some of which have been further renovated and opened. For example there is the Mosque/Madrassa of Sultan Ashraf Barsbay near the spice market in the Khan. Heading north up the Qasaba, we entered the Mosque and Mausoleum of Barquq, the mosques of Aqmar and Hakim, Beit el-Silhany and many other sites along the Qasaba north of Al-Azhar.

The Wikala of el-Goury is now open as a theatre venue, and the Sabil-Kuttabe/Mausoleum of el-Ghoury is all cleaned up from the outside. We went inside el-Ghoury Mosque/Madrassa and went up the minaret. Down the street towards Bab Zuwayla, renovations have progressed on the Sabil of Pasha Tusun, the Wikala of Nasifa and the Mosque of Mu'ayyad. The views from Bab Zuwayla are the best way to see this area. Further down the Street of the Saddlemakers I passed by the tomb of Hasan Sadaqa and received a VIP tour of the Palace of Taz by an archaeologist from Cairo University. The palace has been renovated as a musical venue and a museum.

Another day we started out at the Mosque of Ibn Tulun, then visited the Gayer-Anderson Museum. Next, we visited the Sabil-Kuttab of Qaytbay, the Mosque/Madrassa of Sultan Hassan, Mosque of el-Rifai, the Mosque of Aqsunqur (the Blue Mosque), Mosque of Maridani, Madrassa/Sabil-Kuttab of Um Shaban, and the Mosque of Qijmas al-Shaqi, followed by dinner at Abu-el Cid.

A Pyramid day, starting at Dashur, then Saqqara, then Giza.

We head to Luxor for two days at the New Winter Palace. On the west bank we visit the Tomb of Ay and Ramsses I. Other sites in the Valley of the kings and among the tombs of the Nobles. Other mandatory stops on the west bank inlcude the mortuary temples of Hatshepsut, Ramses the Great and Ramses III (Medinat Habu). Camilla and Ann-marie focus on the outdoor museum at Karnak, and then we meet in Luxor Temple.

Back in Cairo, we drink in the ambience of el-Hussein Hotel, Fishawy's Cafe and the Khan al-Kalili.